Setsuzokuya – Page 4 – On ErikaRS' Mind

Site Layout

Posted on May 13, 2012June 18, 2023 by ErikaRS

Patterns made relatively few contributions to our general site layout. The shape of our lot, its relation to the street and utilities, and the setbacks and easements imposed by the city combined to make the placing of our house fairly obvious: our house would be at the east end of a long east/west oriented lot. Fortunately, these constraints ended up being fairly consistent with what we wanted out of the site layout patterns. (As before, problem descriptions and solutions — the first two bullet points of each section — are from A Pattern Language.)

Site repair (104):

Problem: Buildings must always be built on those parts of the land which are in the worst condition, not the best.
Therefore: On no account place the buildings in the places which are most beautiful. If fact, do the opposite. Consider the site and its buildings as a single living eco-system. Leave those areas that are the most precious, beautiful, comfortable, and healthy as they are, and build new structures in those parts of the site which are least pleasant now.
For our home: The site naturally lent itself to fulfilling this pattern. Our lot is one portion of what was once a larger lot. The east side of our property had been disturbed by the construction of two new homes to the north. The west side is mostly wooded and partially a buffer zone for a nearby critical slope. Based on these constraints, it was natural to leave the wooded area intact and build on the disturbed land.

South facing outdoors (105):

Problem: People use open space if it is sunny, and do not use it if it isn’t, in all but desert climates.
Therefore: Always place buildings to the north of the outdoor spaces that go with them, and keep the outdoor spaces to the south. Never leave a deep band of shade between the building and the sunny part of the outdoors.
In our home: Our site is long east-west and short north-south, so we do not have a lot of flexibility for north/south siting. Part of the southern side of the property is taken by easements for a pedestrian path and for utilities. We have trees along the south western edge of our property, which decreases the amount of sunlight available. Despite the difficulties, we still have a sunny front yard in the east and a backyard in the west filled with tree-filtered sunlight. Neither requires going through deeply shaded areas for access. The shaded north side will be a terraced path down to the back yard.

Main entrance (110):

Problem: Placing the main entrance (or main entrances) is perhaps the single most important step you take during the evolution of a building plan.
Therefore: Place the main entrance of the building at a point where it can be seen immediately from the main avenues of approach and give it a bold, visible shape which stands out in front of the building.
In our home: The location of the main entry was constrained by where we could put the garage (only on the north side). The garage also causes the entry to be nestled in instead of standing out in front of the building. We adapted to this difficulty and the site’s natural elevation change by adding a large, bold stairway down to the front door. This extends the entry out so that it can be seen from all three approaches (driveway, sidewalk, and pedestrian path).

Entrance transition (112):

Problem: Buildings, and especially houses, with a graceful transition between the street and the inside, are more tranquil than those which open directly off the street.
Therefore: Make a transition space between the street and the front door. Bring the path which connects street and entrance through this transition space and mark it with a change of light, a change of sound, a change of direction, a change of surface, a change of level, perhaps by gateways which make a change of enclosure, and above all with a change of view.
In our home: The design and placement of the entry were a good start for this pattern. The entry stairs (on the left in the image below) provide a natural change of level, material, and view. However, we need to make sure that this connects to all of the approaches. To aid in this, we are planning on adding some stairs from the sidewalk to the entry. These will provide a connection and allow us to add landscaping to further emphasize the sense of transition.

Car connection (113):

Problem: The process of arriving in a house, and leaving it, is fundamental to our daily lives; and very often it involves a car. But the place where cars connect to houses, far from being important and beautiful, is often off to one side and neglected.
Therefore: Place the parking place for the car and the main entrance, in such a relation to each other, that the shortest route from the parked car into the house, both to the kitchen and to the living rooms, is always through the main entrance. Make the parking place for the car into an actual room which makes a positive and graceful place where the car stands, not just a gap in the terrain.
In our home: This pattern had a large influence on the design of our entry sequence. This pattern and past experience convinced us that we really didn’t want to have multiple main entries into the home. We decided to just have one — there isn’t even a door directly inside from the garage. The driveway, garage, and other approaches all funnel into the single (covered) entry. Architecturally, the car connection is not a positive place (i.e., enclosed on multiple sides). however, we are planning on using garden features to give it a feel of enclosure.

Next up in out pattern posts will be a discussion of the patterns that influenced our building envelope.

Our pattern language: Zones

Posted on May 6, 2012June 18, 2023 by ErikaRS

Once upon a time, we spoke of how we narrowed down the 253 patterns in A Pattern Language down to the ~70 that we felt were most relevant to our home. Today we want to go into more detail about those patterns, starting with the “big moves”, those patterns that underlie our sense of place.

Our home begins with

House for a small family (76):

Problem: In a house for a small family, it is the relationship between children and adults which is most critical.
Therefore: Give the house three distinct parts: a realm for the parents, a realm for the children, and a common area. Conceive these three realms as roughly similar in size, with the commons the largest.^[1]

This overarching pattern leads naturally to three others: Common areas at the heart, Couple’s realm, and Children’s realm.

Common areas at the heart (129):

Problem: No social group — whether a family, a work group, or a school group — can survive without constant informal contact among its members.
Therefore: Create a single common area for every social group. Locate it at the center of gravity of all the spaces the group occupies, and in such a way that the paths which go in and out of the building lie tangent to it.
In our home: Our open great room acts as the heart of our home. It lies tangent to the main entry (on the right, below) and, less directly, to the back entry (at the bottom of the stairs to the left). We have other shared spaces, but this one is truly the heart of the home.

Common areas at the heart of our main floor

Couple’s realm (136):

Problem: The presence of children in a family often destroys the closeness and the special privacy which a man and wife need together.^[2]
Therefore: Make a special part of the house distinct from the common areas and all the children’s rooms, where the man and woman of the house can be together in private. Give this place a quick path to the children’s rooms, but, at all costs, make it a distinctly separate realm.
In our home: The couple’s realm is a distinct space from the rest of the home. It’s more than just a bedroom — our realm is meant to be an area where we can comfortably spend time alone together. It is directly across the hall from the children’s realm, making that realm distinct but accessible.

Couple’s realm and Children’s realm upstairs

Children’s realm (137):

Problem: If children do not have space to release a tremendous amount of energy when they need to, they will drive themselves and everybody else in the family up the wall.
Therefore: Start by placing the small area which will belong entirely to the children — the cluster of their beds. Place it in a separate position toward the back of the house, and in such a way that a continuous play space can made from this cluster to the street, almost like a wide swath inside the house, muddy, toys strewn along the way, touching those family rooms which children need — the bathroom and the kitchen most of all — passing the common area along one side (but leaving quiet sitting areas and the couple’s realm entirely separate and inviolate), reaching out to the street, either through its own door or through the entrace room, and ending in an outdoor room, connected to the street, and sheltered, and large enough so that the children can play in it when it rains, yet still be outdoors.
In our home: This is a detailed pattern. We took what was most important to us. The children’s realm is a distinctly separate space. It does have access to the outdoors without cutting through the common space (by the stairs and back door), but, since that path uses the common stair case, the access itself is only weakly part of the children’s realm.

These patterns describe the defining zones of our home. In the next post, we’ll look at some structures that define the physical layout of our home.

^[1] All of the patterns in have the form: context; problem statement; discussion; conclusion; related patterns. Our pattern posts will have just the problem statement and conclusion; we refer you to the book for the rest

^[2] Yes, this book, published in 1977, is full of heteronormative assumptions. Just try to ignore them.

Soundproofing

Posted on April 29, 2012June 18, 2023 by ErikaRS

Not every home has a media room. This room is dedicated to enjoying video games, shows, movies, and music. It can handle an intimate group — just the two of us — or a larger group — a Rock Band party. One way a media room differs from a family room with a TV is the extra effort put into isolating it from the rest of the house. As much as possible, activity in the media room shouldn’t disturb the rest of the house.

Basics of Soundproofing

Let’s start with a quick review of sound. Sound travels via vibrations in air and solids (and liquids, but houses generally aren’t built from liquids). When a sound wave hits a wall the wall will vibrate, which will cause the air within the wall to vibrate, and transfer sound to the other side of the wall. The sound wave vibrates the studs in the wall, providing a second path to the other side. There are many ways to decrease the amount of sound transferred:

Decoupling elements: If the drywall on the inside of the room is not directly connected to the outside of the room, then there will be no solid pathways to transfer sound.
Absorption: Loose material in the empty spaces of the wall help absorb and deaden the sound attempting to travel through the air cavities in the wall.
Adding mass: Heavier materials require more energy to make them vibrate. By adding mass to the walls, more of the energy from the sound will be absorbed by the walls, and less energy will be available to transfer through the wall.
Damping: If it is more difficult for the wall to vibrate in the first place (i.e., it doesn’t respond as much to the sound waves), then less sound will be transmitted.

This information was summarized from a more in-depth article from the Soundproofing Company.

The Walls

The most important element of a soundproof room is the walls. In the world of soundproofing, there are many wall options and many trade-offs. We chose a solution that is simple and cheap.

The lower part of the walls are formed by the concrete foundation; the added mass of these walls help to reduce sound transmission.

We added soundproofing insulation to the interior walls. The materials and labor for the R-13 insulation was cheap, so we insulated all the interior walls in the house. This will help absorb sound traveling through the air cavities in the walls.

We looked at several wall damping solutions for the media room. A popular solution is Green Glue, a compound put between two layers of drywall to dampen sound. The material is cheap, but it does require a second layer of drywall and extra installation time. Because is is inexpensive and not difficult to install correctly, it is popular in do-it-yourself solutions.

A second option is QuietRock. This is an all-in-one damped panel that is installed in place of drywall. Installation is exactly the same as drywall, but the material costs are more expensive.

Another option was Resilient Channels. These are attached perpendicular to the studs, and drywall is attached only to the channels. This allows the drywall to flex a bit and dampen more of the sound. It also provides decoupling from the studs. The channels are cheap, and installation is not too much more complex than just drywall. Care needs to be taken to prevent the screws connecting the drywall to the channel from touching the studs (this would prevent the flexing and decoupling of the drywall).

We chose channels because of the price and because the installer is familiar with them. Sound isolation clips can be used with some kinds of channel and provide extra isolation, but they add material and labor expenses. We decided channels should be good enough for the level of soundproofing we want. If we want something more, adding Green Glue plus a second layer of drywall is a relatively straightforward addition that we could do later. It wouldn’t require removal or remounting of the existing drywall; it is simply a second layer added on top of the existing drywall and channels.

The Details

Walls are the most important part of soundproofing the room, but the details are also important. The mass of a solid core door prevents sound from easily travelling through it. A gasket around the edge of the door provides a strong seal against the frame when closed, and less sound is able to travel through the gaps around the edge of the door.

We avoided can lights because those allow sound to travel through the ceiling. Surface-mount lights allow a solid layer of insulation in the ceiling and nearly unbroken drywall on channels.

The attachment points of the projector mount and screen can negate the advantage of the channels, if screwed into the studs through the drywall. The projector mount is mounted directly to blocks in the ceiling. The drywall will be installed around the mount and a bit of sealant will provide a flexible interface between the drywall and the mount. The screen should be able to attach directly to the drywall without going through to the studs. It is heavier than the projector but spread over a larger area.

Carpet is an easy flooring choice. It provides extra soundproofing, is comfortable, and provides better acoustics. A hard floor would reflect more sound.

Sound travels well through the reflective walls of vents, but fresh air is critical in a tightly-sealed room. We are using a supply and return to the HRV system to provide fresh air into the room and evacuate the stale air. The supply will be tucked into an open portion of the closet, while the return will be in an enclosed portion of the closet. The closet should help muffle the sound that makes it to the vents. They both go to the HRV, which we assume will not transfer too much sound into the other ducts attached to it. Bends in the ducts will also help absorb sound.

Overall, not a lot of changes were needed to provide extra sound isolation in the media room; we mainly had to spend time considering details. From that, we should get a reasonable level of soundproofing without too much extra cost.

Electrical & Wiring Design

Posted on April 23, 2012June 18, 2023 by ErikaRS

One of the areas that requires a lot of design work is wiring: the electrical system and other wiring such as phone, cable, and data connections. It is important to get this right before the walls are sealed up because it is difficult to modify later. It is the system that has the most end-points, will have the greatest effect on day-to-day life, has more flexibility now than it ever will, and has had the least design or input so far.

Living room: outlets will be low throughout the main floor to keep the walls as clean as possible

Outlets near floor in living room. One for data, one for electrical.

Outlets
The electrical system includes the lighting, electrical outlets, and switches. We’ll cover lighting separately — it involves a lot more than just wiring.

The electrician spaced the electrical outlets about equally around the walls. Other than a few specific requests, we trusted his judgement and code for the exact placement. On the main floor, our builder had the electrician turn the outlets horizontally and place them close to the floor for a cleaner look. Upstairs in the more functional rooms, outlets are at a standard height and orientation for better accessibility. In a few locations where we know we will have desks or counters, the outlets are just above or below desk height to provide easy access for equipment.

Main breaker panel (rather full)

Other wiring
The rest of the non-lighting electrical wiring is for appliances. Nearly everything in our house is electric, including the HVAC system, water heater, sump pump, dryer, oven, and now the cooktop. We pre-wired for an electric car charger in the garage — this was the biggest cable, up to 100 amps. The oven/microwave combo and cooktop require 50 amps each, the dryer, water heater, and sump pump each use 30 amps, and each of the two exterior heat pump units use 15 amps. This adds up to a large potential load on our electric capacity. Most of these items won’t run at full load most of the time, and many will run rarely. A demand-weighted load calculation showed that we should be fine with the standard 200 amp service common in new construction.

Close-up of kitchen outlet with phone, data, and conduit with string for wire pull

Kitchen outlet with phone (blue), ethernet (grey),
and twine for pulling cable through the conduit.

Communications
The area we had the most input on was the communications wiring. We believe cable and phone connections are becoming obsolete, so we only added a few. We have one phone connection in the master dressing room and one in the kitchen (where we’re planning a communications center). We added one cable connection in the living room and one in the media room. These should cover most important use cases.

Central data panel. The media room cabinets will double as a server closet, so all the Ethernet connections and conduit for future wiring (such as fiber) end here.

Main ethernet panel with conduit

Our dominant communication technology is digital data streams. This was where we focused most of our attention (and money). Wireless LAN is nice for quick access from anywhere, but it is not as reliable or as fast as ethernet. We have a wired access point in each major area. WLAN or long cables allow access near that endpoint. We specified cat6 cable so it will be usable for as long as possible. Upstairs, we have an endpoint in each of the secondary bedrooms, one in the master dressing room, and one in the laundry/craft room. On the main level, we have one in the kitchen, one in the living room, one in the office, and one in the garage. The closet in the media room will be the center for both media equipment, and our computer connections and servers. All of the ethernet runs from the upper two levels end at a panel in the media closet.

Living room conduit, Cat6, and coax cable

Living room with conduit
for future cabling

Even cat6 ethernet cable will eventually be replaced by something better. To provide future flexibility, conduits run from the media/server closet to locations throughout the house. This is tubing in the walls with a string run through it. In the future, we will be able to pull the latest cable (such as fiber optics) through that tube, allowing us to provide hard-wired access to the main locations in the house.

Just to the left of the HRV unit, including the endpoints of conduits to individual rooms in the house

Crawlspace with several conduit endpoints

Conduit is harder to run and costs more than ethernet cabling, so we limited ourselves to three conduits per level. The upper level has one for each second bedroom, and one in the master dressing room. The main level has one in the kitchen, one in the living room, and one in the office. To make it easier to pull a cable through, the conduits go roughly straight down and end in the crawlspace; one larger conduit connects the crawlspace to the server closet.

Projector mount with conduit and electrical

We have a short conduit within the media room that runs from the media closet up to the middle of the ceiling, where we have a mount point for a projector. This allows us to run a video cable such as HDMI directly from the source equipment up to the projector in a convenient and concealed manner.

Sound
Wireless speakers are good enough for ambient music, so we limited our speaker wiring to the media room.

Two subwoofer coax cables run from the media closet to opposite corners of the room for flexible subwoofer placement. Speaker wiring is run from the media closet out to eight locations in the room: three in the front, three in the back, and two on the sides. Not all of them will be used right away, but we wanted to support whatever future formats might specify. The side speaker wires aren’t even ended at an outlet; there is just some extra cable in the wall which could be used in the future. The rear connections end at the floor so that they can be run up a speaker stand. Extra cable was left in the wall higher up to support wall- or ceiling-mounted speakers.

Rear speaker connections in the media room (these are right rear and center rear, in case 6.1 or 8.1 audio becomes popular). The outlets are at floor level so we can run the connections up a pedestal support (instead of trying to wall-mount the rather large speakers); but with enough extra in the wall to switch them to a ceiling connection later, if desired.

Rear speaker wiring with outlets near the floor
and extra cable above

Security/automation
The final wiring is low voltage wiring for a security system. It also enables the much more interesting possibility of home automation. Door sensors and motion sensors can be triggered for security or automatically turn on lights when someone enters a particular area. Wiring for a security panel can be used to install a touchscreen for central control. Some extra wall switch boxes were installed to support programmed control of lights at several main locations within the house. All the wiring for these systems was run downstairs into the server closet. At our discretion, we can install a panel that connects everything up and provides security, automation, or both.

Green Home Tour

Posted on April 16, 2012June 18, 2023 by ErikaRS

Our house will be participating in the Seattle Green Home Tour this coming weekend! Our in-progress house will be open Saturday and Sunday from 10am-4pm. One or two of the finished houses in the development may be participating, too. We’ll be hanging out there for a while each day, and would be happy to give a tour and talk about anything you’re interested in.

For address and more information, check out the page about our site.

Heating & Cooling

Posted on April 14, 2012June 18, 2023 by ErikaRS

“Can we have multiple heating zones with this setup?”

What far reaching affects this innocent question had! Our original plans for an HVAC system were fairly typical for a new home in the US: single-zone, central-air, powered by an efficient gas furnace with an attachment point for a future air conditioner coil. You can add zones to variants of this system, but it becomes increasingly complicated (and expensive). Yuval suggested that we look at heat pumps.

What is a heat pump?

A heat pump uses condensation and evaporation of a refrigerant to heat or cool a space. Air source heat pumps use the air as the energy source/sink. It doesn’t take much to get a feel for how heat pumps can heat a space:

Evaporating the refrigerant transfers energy from the air into the refrigerant. The loss of energy leaves the air cooler.
Condensing the refrigerant transfers energy from the refrigerant into the air. The addition of energy leaves the air warmer.

This may make it seem like heat pumps would require the space where the energy is coming from to be warmer than the space where the energy is going to, but this isn’t the case. The heat source only needs to be warm enough to transfer energy to the refrigerant, and the heat sink only needs to be cool enough to accept heat from the refrigerant.

Refrigerators and freezers illustrate this well. They use a small air source heat pump to make cool spaces even cooler by transferring the energy in the fridge into your kitchen (which is, hopefully, much warmer than the fridge or freezer).

For further details, you can read this article and these not-very-good Wikipedia articles: Heat Pumps, Air Source Heat Pumps. And at this point, my facts become an amalgamation of things I have read and things I have learned in conversation — sorry about the lack of citations.

Some trade-offs

Heat pumps are fairly rare in the US today. They are more common internationally (the system we are going with is from Mitsubishi), and the systems have been around for a while. They are common enough, and becoming more popular as their efficiency is recognized, that we shouldn’t have problems maintaining our system, but it is a risk.

Heat pumps, at least the ones we are considering, are driven electrically, but run at a much higher efficiency than electric baseboard heat. They are more comparable to an efficient gas furnace, but as the opening question points toward, heat pump systems are easier to configure into zones. Separately-controlled and conditioned zones are often more efficient since you aren’t heating the whole house to the same level, but just the area(s) you are currently using. The Mitsubishi system provides a number of other efficiency features, such as providing a variable amount of conditioning (instead of full-on or full-off), and less heat loss in the small, well-insulated refrigerant lines versus standard ductwork.

Heat pumps require refrigerant, and refrigerants are a negative, as far as the environment is concerned. This is partially mitigated by fact that this is a long lifetime, closed system. Mitsubishi also uses refrigerant that has a low environmental impact.

Some heat pump systems, including the one we are using, are reversible — they can transfer energy in and act as a heater or transfer energy out and act as an air conditioner. Even though we were not planning on installing an air conditioning unit at construction time, using a system which supports both functions results in a simpler, more cost efficient solution.

No ducts! The refrigerant line is hardly larger
than the wiring, and with the wrapping
it’s still ~2″ in diameter

Heat pumps have one more really big advantage for a green home: they don’t require ducts. We are going with a fully ductless setup where the refrigerant lines run directly from the exterior units to the distribution units. This allowed us to open up the main floor by removing the need for some interior soffits. The impact on the roof was much more substantial. Because we don’t need to run ducts, our home is now able to support a roof design that provides a significantly higher level of insulation. Since the roof is one of the large energy leakers in a standard home, this will result in a much tighter home. (Sneak preview: this ended up having some unintended consequences in our kitchen.)

Our system

We are going with a Mitsubishi heat pump system. Two external heat pump units will drive six interior distribution units, for a total of six different zones (one per bedroom, two on the main floor, and one downstairs). We decided not to go with programmable thermostats since they are expensive and the units we are buying support a basic level of programmability — a single day/night cycle — that is good enough for us.

Not ugly, but not exactly beautiful

This is one of the units (installed over the door of our dressing room). The units are not huge, but they are not small either. Each unit is about the width of a doorway, and about a foot tall and a foot deep. This is fine in the bedrooms and media room, where we were able to put them in fairly out-of-the-way locations (over doorways). However, we were not able to do this in the open living area of the main floor; we put the distribution unit behind the fireplace — okay, but not ideal.

This was actually a bit of a disappointment. We initially planned to do a system that used small ducts on the main floor to move the air from the distribution units to the open space. This is when green politics got involved. We’re going for a Built Green certification on our home — this is a nice-to-have that gives us a verification that our home is green by some external standard and is also good marketing fodder for our builder. To get a Built Greet certification, your heating system must be Energy Star approved. However, Energy Star does not handle configurable systems well.

The exterior hookup.
The installed unit will only be 3′ x 3′ with a depth of 1′

Both the ducted and ductless variants of the Mitsubishi are Energy Star approved. However, what is not approved is having a single exterior unit drive one ducted interior unit and one non-ducted interior unit. Energy Star approval applies only to the exact system that was evaluated. This makes sense — variations could potentially decrease the efficiency of a system. However, approval is binary, and there is no process for getting small variants approved; the variant has to go through the full approval process, and the cost of that is prohibitive for one-offs or all possible combinations. Okay, rant over =)

Overall, we’re happy with the configuration that was installed. We’ll provide an update once we’ve moved in and have experienced how this works in practice!

Review of Q1 2012

Posted on April 7, 2012June 18, 2023 by ErikaRS

The first quarter of 2012 is over, and it was a quarter of great progress. It was the quarter of rough-in work.

Framing was completed:

Plumbing was added:

Then HVAC:

Fireplace:

And electrical:

Windows were installed:

And then siding:

The timelapse for the quarter shows all the exterior pieces coming together.

We spent a lot of time on design this quarter. Some of it was just-in-time design, such as the electrical and lighting. Framing changes were made based on 3D models of the interior. The master bath won’t be installed for awhile, but the tiles need to be ordered now. There was a steady stream of small decisions, such as the fascia color for the roof trim. Many design discussions are ongoing as we take our high level design ideas and then refine the details as we gather samples, compare colors, and work through every individual piece.

The rough-in work is nearly done, and we are anxiously awaiting insulation and drywall. These will mark the beginning of the finish phase of the project. Each successive stage will appear to move at a slower pace, as more care is taken to perfect the details. Several areas may be in-progress at the same time, though. To accommodate this change, we will replace our weekly summaries with weekly overviews focusing on a single area. We’ll go into details on individual elements, providing more background and design information, plus in-progress and final pictures of the installation. Our photo gallery and timelapse gallery will still be updated regularly with each weeks’ progress.

Dirt-moving and Inspections

Posted on March 28, 2012June 18, 2023 by ErikaRS

Not a lot of interior work was done last week. Rough-in is nearly finished, so time on site was filled by inspections and corrections. Outside, more siding was added, the decks are closer to being finished, and dirt moving for landscaping was started.

More electrical work was done — in theory, but not in practice, the last of it. The electrical panel was labeled, and the connection to the main service is nearly ready to go. We asked for a small correction in the media room, and a larger circuit put in for the kitchen for an electric-powered stove. Temporary circuits need to be added for space heaters to dry out the interior before drywall. This will all happen this week. However, the electrical inspection was approved, along with most other rough-in inspections. Mechanical required a small correction around the fireplace, but everything else that was ready has been approved. The only remaining inspection is for framing, which requires some work from the insulation installer this week.

More siding was installed on last week, including the lower south side, the north side of the garage, paneling around the stair tower door, and some paneling around the living room windows.

Nicer weather provided an opportunity for more progress on the deck. The living room deck was evened out, sanded, and is now ready for the finishing stain. The upper deck was completely finished, including staining. The wood has darkened and is a richer color now. The finish looks uneven in the picture because it was still drying.

The most important work last week was dirt-moving. The entry-way was filled in with dirt and can now serve it’s stated purpose of letting people enter. The driveway was smoothed out, so it can now support a concrete truck pouring the slab for the garage floor. The front yard in general has been leveled, and prepped for hardscape and landscape. The area between our house and the neighbor’s is being prepped for landscaping (which has been designed). Finally, our backyard has been smoothed.

The camera wasn’t pointed quite low enough to capture the dirt being moved, but you can see the movement of the excavator. The end of the week shows the finishing work being done on the rooftop deck.

Poplar has been delivered for the windowsills, which will go in soon (before the drywall). Fire breaks (to keep fire from spreading in the walls) need to be put in this week, then the framing inspection can happen. Now that the entry has been filled in with dirt, the entrance through the garage can be sealed up, and a blower can be put on the front door to find and seal any leaks in the envelope of the house.

Siding and Wiring Conduits

Posted on March 19, 2012June 18, 2023 by ErikaRS

Last week mostly saw work on the exterior siding for the house. The electrician came by for just a bit to work on some of the last details. However, a few more questions came up, so the electrical work wasn’t quite finished last week.

Quite a bit of the lap siding was installed, including the north side, upper level on the east side, the north-west side, the upper south-west side, and the upper south side.

We acquired the exterior wall washer light we’re going to use on the west side of the house at night. We tested it out one evening after dark, and it should do a good job highlighting our house.

The last major piece of wiring (I believe) was getting conduit for future cabling run. The endpoints are in the living room, kitchen, office, master dressing, and second bedrooms. These run down into the crawlspace, except for the office, which runs directly into the server closet. The server closet then has a single conduit that runs into the crawlspace. The media room has a conduit that runs from the closet up to the projector mount to send video up there.

I spent some time exploring the crawlspaces under our house. The crawlspace is quite generous, and there are plenty of pipes, ducts, and wires running under there. The space is large enough that we added some stub points for lights. Under the garage you can follow the electrical wiring back to the central electrical panel.

The timelapse shows the siding installation (the work later in the week was covered by a blue tarp to protect from the rain). You can catch a brief glimpse of snow falling Tuesday morning.

Next should see more work on the siding. We are hoping to have the inspections finished up soon; maybe this week if we are lucky.

Electrical Wiring, Exterior Finishing

Posted on March 13, 2012June 18, 2023 by ErikaRS

This week saw more good progress on both the interior and exterior. The electrical wiring is nearly complete. Some exterior finishes, including siding, exterior soffits, and the rear deck all saw work done on them.

For electrical wiring, the interior line voltage work (lights, switches, electrical outlets, and a big, beefy cable for an electric car charger in the garage) is nearly completed. There might still be a few details left, but not much at all. The majority of the data wiring was completed, with Ethernet, cable, phone, and low-voltage for security or home automation run throughout the house, and speaker wire plus a bit of subwoofer coax cable run in the media room. There is still some wire that needs to be run for exterior lighting and electrical outlets, and then a few conduits for future data wiring and media room wiring need to be run. Those should be complete within a few days, and then the electrical inspection can be done.

The fireplace and gas connection on the back deck were installed this last week. The fireplace has been mostly covered up to protect it, but since part of the cardboard was detached, we took the opportunity to get a picture of it.

Some ductwork for the HRV unit was added.

Some of the exterior finish work was started last week, too. The HardiePlank and HardiePanel siding was delivered Monday morning. The panels were put up on the stair tower during the week.

It is not painted, and there may be some other details in the channels between the boards to do, but it is starting to give a feel for what the finished house will look like. The HardiePanel is being used for the lower exterior soffit, and the bit of that was installed. The upper exterior soffit was installed using a knotty cedar.

The flooring of the back deck was laid down on Friday. It isn’t fully finished, but looks quite nice already, especially when it gets wet.

We finally moved the camera to a position right in front of the house. It should be able to capture all the upcoming work on the entryway, siding installation, along with all the general activity of people moving around during the day.

Next week should see electrical finished, and some inspections done. Once all the rough-in inspections are done, insulation can go in; but we don’t expect that to happen this coming week. Siding and/or deck work will probably continue on the exterior. The next big piece outside will be getting the entry foundation backfilled and the driveway filled in for better support. Once you can actually walk in through the front door, the missing panel in the garage will be filled in, and the house can be sealed up and tested for leaks. Then the garage can be cleared out, and the cement slab poured in there, which will allow installation of the hot water heater. We’re not quite sure on the timing of all that, though, because a bit of landscape design needs to be done on the north side of our house (south side of the neighbor’s), so that all the dirt-moving can be done at once.